The Easy Way to Better Pool Care
Pools are to be enjoyed, providing healthy and relaxing activities. Proper pool care will provide you with safe, sparkling and comfortable pool water.
We've condensed over 40 years of pool care experience into this simple and effective guide. This booklet was written specifically to address the unique water care conditions of Mid-South pool owners.
Protect your pool investment and the people who use it. Follow this step-by-step guide for a "better way to take care of your pool."
Openings and Closings: This guide addresses normal "seasonal" operation. Ask for specific information on what to do with your pool during the "off season."
Nine DIY Steps to Save Time and Money
- 1. Getting Started
- 2. Filter and Clean
- 3. PH and Balance
- 4. Chlorinate
- 5. Shock
- 6. Algae Control
- 7. Pro Water Check
- 8. Enhance
- 9. Problem Solving
Step 1 : Getting Started
Safety First
Make safe pool activities a priority. Be sure everyone obeys these important rules:
- Never swim alone.
- Never mix alcohol with pool activities.
- Never dive into shallow water.
- Never leave children unattended in or around the pool area - not even for a moment.
- Never mix chemicals together - always mix directly into water. Follow all instructions on Chemical containers.
- Keep safety equipment and phone by pool in case of emergency.
Determining Your Pool's Capacity
To properly apply chemicals, you must know your pool's capacity. Use the following formulas to calculate your pool's gallonage. Multiply (using feet):
| _____ x ____ x ________ x ________ = _________ |
| Length x Width x Avg. Depth x S Factor = Gallons |
Use for S(hape) Factor: Rectangle 7.5, Oval 6.7, Round 5.9
Gallonage for Popular Sizes:
- 16' x 32' Rectangle = 19,000 Gallons
- 18' x 36' Rectangle = 24,000 Gallons
- 20' x 40' Rectangle = 30,000 Gallons
Water Testing
Appearance is not a reliable gauge of the condition of your pool water. A good test kit or test strips must be used regularly to insure clear and sanitary water. Test your chlorine and pH levels at least twice weekly. Bring a water sample to our Water Care Lab for a complete Pro-Check analysis every 4 - 6 weeks...no charge to our regular customers!
Step 2 : Filter & Clean
The Secret to Clean, Clear Water
Clean, clear, and sanitary swimming pool water is achieved through a combination of:
- Filtration
- Regular Cleaning & Maintenance
- Chemical Treatment & Water Balance
Pool water will remain fresh and inviting only if all 3 of these factors are properly applied. Water problems resulting from poor filtration cannot be cured by chemical treatments.
The Pump & Filtration System
The pool's circulation system is designed to filter the entire contents of the pool at least every 8-12 hours. The pump draws water from the skimmer(s) and main drain, circulating it through the filter, removing fine particles and dirt. Filtered water may also pass through a heater or chlorinator before returning to the pool through the return inlets.
As the filter becomes saturated with dirt, the pressure gauge shows an increase and the return flow of water to the pool decreases. The filter must now be cleansed. Sand filters are cleansed through the "backwash" cycle. The backwash cycle reverses the flow of water through the filter and flushes the entrapped dirt to the sewer. Backwashing normally takes 3-4 minutes. When positioning your filter valve to "backwash," be sure to turn off the pump.
Backwash when the pressure gauge increases 5-10# over its "clean" pressure (Generally every 5-10 days). Backwashing too frequently will waste chemicals and water and will NOT improve filtration. Have a cartridge or Diatomaceous Earth (DE) filter? Ask for cleaning details.
Enhance Your Filtration
Filtration can be dramatically enhanced by adding Pool Baron's Clarifier to the water. This special agent speeds the clearing of cloudy water and gives an extra sparkle to dull water.
SeaKlear 4-in-1 is another clarifier that is made from all natural products. Clarifiers are a safe, inexpensive way to improve your filter's performance and deliver the clearest possible water.
Vacuuming & Cleaning
Most pools now have an automatic cleaner, which eliminates most of the work associated with vacuuming and brushing. Regular cleaning of the pool is esssential whether done using traditional vacuum and brushes or via an automatic cleaner.
Dirt and debris consume chemicals and can stain the pool. Therefore, remove all leaves, debris and dirt as soon as possible with a good cleaning. For heavy leaf accumulation, a "Leaf Master" is a must! It's a proven tool that's fast and easy.
Other Important "To Do's"
Observe your pool daily and give attention as necessary to these other important cleaning tasks:
- Keep pump and skimmer baskets clean - a clogged basket restricts filtration.
- Keep water level up - don't allow it to go below skimmer opening.
- Clean water line with an effective cleaner such as Cling 'n' Clean.
Step 3: pH Balance
Balance - It's Very Important
Proper water balance is essential to clear, sanitary and comfortable pool water. Factors such as Total Alkalinity and Calcium Hardness help determine the overall balance of the water. However, pH is the most important factor in water balance and is also most likely to show day to day changes.
What is pH?
PH is a measure of the relative acidity and alkalinity of water. The pH scale runs from the highly acid range of 0 to the highly alkaline range of 14. A pH of 7 is considered neutral. The ideal and most comfortable range for pool water pH is between 7.2 and 7.7.
Problems With "Out of Range" pH
Low pH (pH below 7.2) causes:
- Eye burn and skin irritation
- Corrosion of pool equipment & fittings
- Rapid loss of Chlorine
- Damage to pool's surface
A high pH (above 7.7) causes:
- Loss of chlorine effectiveness
- Scaling on pool surface
- Cloudy water
- Ideal conditions for algae growth
It is very important to keep your pH between 7.2 and 7.7, to avoid the many problems that can occur with your pool's water and equipment.
What Causes the pH to Change?
PH can vary from week to week, even day to day. Factors that effect the pH include: swimmers, rainwater, fresh water, chlorine, and the total alkalinity.
Adjusting pH
If the pH is LOW, add pH UP to raise the pH. Follow instructions on the container for dosage and application. Generally, never add more than 1/4- 1/2 lb. of pH UP per 20,000 gallons of pool water at one time. Retest after 4 hours and repeat dosage if necessary.
If the pH is HIGH, add pH DOWN or Muriatic Acid to lower the pH. Follow instructions on the container for dosage. Generally, never add more than 1 quart of muriatic acid or 2.5 lbs. of pH DOWN per 20,000 gallons of water in a single application. Retest after 4 hours and repeat dosage if necessary.
Total Alkalinity
The Total Alkalinity is the measure of alkaline materials dissolved in the water. Proper levels of Total Alkalinity serve as a buffer to prevent fluctuations in the pH.
Total Alkalinity should be between 80 and 130 ppm. A low Total Alkalinity allows the pH to easily "bounce" below its ideal range. A high Total Alkalinity causes your pH to "bounce" above its ideal range.
To increase your Total Alkalinity, add TOTAL ALKALINITY increaser. Follow the instructions on the container. In general, 3 lbs. of TOTAL ALKALINITY adjuster will raise the Total Alkalinity level of a typical 20,000 gallon pool by 10 ppm.
If the Total Alkalinity is high, you may need to add doses of acid or dilute the pool water with fresh water that has a lower Total Alkalinity content. Ask our lab experts for advice.
Test Total Alkalinity monthly. If your test kit doesn't test for Total Alkalinity, bring in a sample to our water lab each month.
Step 4 : Chlorinate
Why Chlorine?
Chlorine is a proven sanitizer. Chlorine effectively kills harmful bacteria and other disease causing organisms. Chlorine also oxidizes waste products and kills algae. Today, chlorine remains the most widely used, effective and economical sanitizer for pools.
Chlorine & Application
Different compounds are available for adding chlorine to the water. Chlorine compounds vary in concentration, quality and potential "other effects" on your pool water. Ask a pool "pro" to be sure you're getting the best quality product and value.
The most effective and popular way to feed chlorine on a steady baily basis is to use a form of 99% trichlor. These slow dissolving, stabilized, highly concentrated froms of chlorine can be added directly to your skimmer backet, floating feeder or automatic feeder. Trichlor comes in the following products:
- 3 Big Tabs/Pucks
- 1 Small Tabs
- Sticks
Granular Chlorine Boost - There are numerous granular-based chlorine compounds that are effective in giving the pool a quick boost in the chlorine level. The best performing and most cost effective are:
- Calcium Hypochlorite (68-78% Chlorine) - May require predissolving. Ideal for Mid-South water conditions.
- Di-Clor (55-62% Chlorine) - Pre-stabilitzed, 100% soluble.
Sustain - The Sustain Chlorine System uses chemicals that makes the chlorine "smart," sensing automatically when to activate. Comes with a 100% aolgae-free guarantee. Ask for details.
How Much Chlorine?
The chlorine level should be regularly tested and maintained between 1.5 and 3.0 ppm. Many factors affect the consumption of chlorine such as sunlight, water temperature, pH, bather usage, and contaminates blown into the pool by wind and rain. Therefore, there is no reliable chart to properly calculate how much chlorine should be added to any particular pool.
However, as a rule of thumb, 1 lb. of granular chlorine will raise a typical 20,000 gallon pool 2 ppm. A 20,000 pool will use about 2-3 pounds per week of Tablets or Sticks. Of course, this will vary based upon the factors mentioned above.
Stabilizer
Sunlight is a major factor in the consumption of chlorine. When Stabilizer is added to the water, it combines with the chlorine and makes the chlorine more resistant to the UV rays of the sun. Stabilized chlorine remains in the water longer, thus requiring less chlorine to replace what has been lost to sunlight. Stabilizer helps keep your chlorine levels constant while reducing your chlorine usage.
Have your stabilizer level checked every 6 weeks to maintain a level between 40-80 ppm. Six pounds of Stabilizer will raise a 20,000 gal. pool by 30 ppm. Unlike chlorine, Stabilizer is lost only through splash-out and backwash.Since most chlorine tabs and sticks contain stabilizer, you may not need to add stabilizer every season.
Alternatives to Chlorine
There are some exciting alternatives to the traditional chlorine applications. See section 8 for information on Frog and MaxZone.
Step 5 : Shock
Why is Shocking Necessary?
Wastes enter the pool through wind, rain and people. Many of these wastes are not filterable and combine with the chlorine to form "chloramines," a chlorine nitrogen complex. Chloramines cause eye irritation and reduce the amount of "free" chlorine available to provide sanitation. This natural build-up of wastes provides nutrients for bacteria and algae growth, often resulting in cloudy, dull or algae-infested water.
What Shocking Does
Shocking burns out wastes and transforms the chloramines to free available chlorine. Shocking uses oxidation to restore the pool water to a sparkling, sanitary and comfortable condition. Normal chlorine levels are unable to accomplish this.
How and When to Shock
Shocking should be done every 7-10 days. Heavy pool use and warm water temperatures will further increase the need to shock. The addition of 1# of a concentrated shocking agent for each 10,000 gallons of pool water is usually sufficient. The most effective shocking compounds are as follows:
- White Lightnin'- Non-Chlorine Oxidizing Shock
- Granular Calcium Hypochlorite (Chlorine based Shock) - available in 1# packets and larger bulk containers
White Lightnin' is often a preferable Shock. It is a concentrated oxidizer that dissolves instantly and does not contain chlorine. Wastes are eliminated without elevating the chlorine to uncomfortable levels.
Step 6 : Algae
The Pool Owner's Plague
Algae are microscopic plant life that are introduced into pools by rain, wind and leaves. When allowed to multiply, algae consume chlorine and become unsightly. Algae often appear as a slimy green mass or as green, cloudy water. Algae can grow quite rapidly, sometimes appearing overnight. Warm water dramatically enhances the growth of algae.
Preventing Algae Growth
The best approach to algae is a prevention program. Use of Rescue Algaecide on a weekly basis is simple and economical. Two ounces of Rescue per 10,000 gallons will help prevent algae growth. Once algae is established, large doses of more than one chemical is often necessary to eliminate this stubborn nemesis.
Eliminating Existing Algae
There are different types of algae. The most common types have their own distinctive color and features. Each requires a different treatment.
Green and Brown Algae appears as green/brown slime or green/brown water. Brush and treat with 2# of chlorine shock per 10,000 gallons and 8 oz of Rescue per 10,000 gallons. Dense algae growth will require heavier doses.
Mustard Algae has the color of mustard and is easily brushed, but returns to pool in hours. Mustard algae is resistant to normal treatments and requires special treatment of "Yellow Shock" and chlorine shock. Ask for details.
This stubborn form develops as dark black spots on the pool's surface. It has a protective coating that makes it resistant to most chemical treatments. Must be aggressively brushed, then treated with special chlorine and algaecide chemicals. Ask for details.
Step 7 : Pro Water Check
Bring Us Your Water For a Complete Analysis
There are other factors in pool water that can be just as important as the pH and chlorine readings. Don't worry, you don't have to become a chemist. Our store lab can make all the necessary tests for you...and it's a service that's free to our customers. Bring us a pint or more of pool water in a clean container every 4-6 weeks for a complete analysis.
Important Factors Checked
A precision analysis will be made of the following factors:
- pH - an accurate reading of this critical factor.
- Total Alkalinity - key to overall balance and pH stability.
- Total Chlorine - all chlorine in the water including "chloramines."
- Free Chlorine - the level of chlorine that is most "active."
- Stabilizer - the level of stabilizer (CYA) that helps "save" chlorine from destruction by sunlight.
- Calcium Hardness - a factor that effects scaling and staining.
- Copper & Iron - metals that cause colored water and staining.
- Total Dissolved Solids - a build up of materials that reduce chlorine effectiveness.
A Prescription You Can Trust
We take into consideration the type of pool, visual condition of the pool, and the inter-relationships of the factors tested. We then make a recommendation intended to provide you with the best quality water and save you money. . . not to have you purchase unnecessary chemicals. That's our " Pledge of Excellence" to you.
Step 8 : Enhance
Better Water
Today's products and technolorgy allow you to enhance the sparkle, the comfort, the purity, the overall quality of water to new levels! you can enjoy waterthat is more naturally fresh and suprisingly "cost-effective."
Surpass with Supreme
Supreme is a remarkable product that enjances any pool by:
- Adding comfort your eyes and skin can feel!
- Creating an incredible blue sparkle.
- Virtually eliminating algae growth at 50+ ppm.
This product is added once, then remains active in the water indefinitely. You only need to add more Supreme to replace what is lost through backwash or dilution.
Mineral Purification
The Frog Mineral System is new technology that does much of the purification and sanitizing work of chlorine. The Frog system uses minerals, such as silver and since, to create an ion reaction that purifies naturally without chemicals. Use 50% less chlorine. Maintain only 1 ppm level, about the same as in your tap water. The mineral cartridge is replaced each year.
MaxZone Ozonation
Ozone provides the ultimate in water purification. Ozone is a safe, natural gas that creates the highest quality water inmaginable. With ozone, only 1 ppm chlorine is required, so little that users will not detect any chlorine irritation or smell in the water. Ozone produces water that is naturally fresh & clear...like mountain spring water!
Step 9 : Problem Solving
Occasionally problems will occur. Your best approach is to bring in a water sample for an analysis or request a visit from one of our service technicians. Below are some of the most commonly occurring problems and their most likely solutions.
Cloudy WaterProbable Causes: Cloudy water is caused by any of, or a combination of the following conditions:
- High pH.
- Waste build-up.
- Low Chlorine level.
- Early stages of algae growth.
- Poor filtration or unfilterable particles
Likely Solution:
- Check pH and adjust to 7.4
- Add 1# Shock per 10,000 gallons.
- Add Pool Baron's Clarifier.
- Check filter system for proper operation & flow.
- Clean/backwash filter if it is dirty.
Metal StainsProbable Causes: Metal stains generally appear in various shades of brown, black, and blue-green. Metal stains are not affected by brushing and can occur even when there is little indication of metals in the water. Any metal content in the water may create a stain.
A low pH allows the pool water to corrode any metals it touches. These dissolved metals ultimately "plate-out" in the form of a stain when the pH is adjusted to its proper levels.
Likely Solution: Adjust pH to 7.2-7.4. Add 1qt. Pool Baron's Super Metal Remove per 12,000 gallons. Do not shock with chlorine. Bring water sample in for lab analysis and ask for professional assistance. METAL STAINS CAN BE DIFFICULT TO REMOVE. See our technical papers on Understanding Metal Stains and Metal Stain Removal.
Green WaterProbable Causes: Possibly caused by metals, but most likely caused by algae growth.
Likely Solution: Check and adjust pH and Total Alkalinity. Add 1# Chlorine Shock and 8 oz. Rescue Algaecide per 10,000 gallons of water. If water is not clearing in 24 hours, repeat treatment. Bring water in to lab for analysis. See Green Water technical paper for detailed information.
Mustard AlgaeIdentifying: Mustard algae is the most difficult of algae to treat. It appears on the pool's floor and looks much like a file silt with a mustard color. When disturbed, it quickly disperses in the water. Often confused with fine dirt that settles on pool floors.
Treatment Solution: Requires use of "Yellow Shock" along with a strong dosage of granular chlorine. Mustard algae will return in days unless 100% killed.
Eye/Skin Irritation - Chlorine OdorProbable Causes: Low pH and/or waste build-up through chloramines.
Likely Solution: Check and adjust pH and Total Alkalinity. Shock with 1# of White Lightnin' per 10,000 gallons of water. Use Enzymes to keep odors from returning.
Can't Keep Chlorine Level Up
Probably Causes: Low Stabilizer level and/or high chlorine demand from excess wastes in water.
Likely Solution: Have water sample lab tested for stabilizer, total dissolved solids and nitrate levels. Add stabilizer if below 40 ppm. Shock with 2# White Lightnin' per 10,000 gallons of water to remove excess wastes. Other action may be necessary.
